By Chef Hunter Lee
Let’s get shakin!!!!
So last week we talked about “The Trinity” now let’s get to talking about dat Roux.
Roux!!! What is a Roux? Roux is one of the first tasks taught in culinary school. Quite simply it’s the base.
Roux is a shortening of beurre roux, which in French translates as “brown butter.”
It’s the thickening agent for a lot of Cajun, Creole and some country recipes. The most famous and notable of these is of course gumbo. BUT it’s used in meatball stew, chicken stew, smothered pork and étouffée’s even though a lighter roux is usually used for dishes like étouffée.
The thought of making roux can and has intimidated the masses for decades. It can be a daunting task if you don’t take the time to follow a few simple steps. I still see a lot of great cooks (even a couple restaurant chefs that will remain nameless) using jar roux, roux mixes, and store-bought shortcuts.
Growing up in Louisiana I learned from my daddy at an early age how to make roux. I remember those days fondly but at the same time honestly it might have been the most boring thing I had ever seen. If you had asked me back then what and how long it took to make roux as a kid I would have said forever! Usually, time wise it took him about 3 Budweiser’s or two Old Charter and cokes to make it. Part of that is the fact you cannot do anything else, you can’t walk away, you can’t really socialize, you can’t prep anything else at the same time.
You stir, you stir, then you stir some more. You stand there and stir until it’s done. Too slow and low never gets it done, too high and fast and you risk burning it. If you even slightly burn it, you throw it away, wash the pot and start over. As a kid this was annoying and boring…I could do nothing but watch and wait. Even as an adult it’s one of my least favorite things to make but being the base of sooooo many great recipes and dishes ya’ just have to do it.
A few notable differences in roux. Typical Creole roux is made from butter and flour, while a Cajun roux is usually made with lard or oil and flour. This is partly due to the scarcity of butter in some Acadian areas of Louisiana when Cajun cuisine was being developed.
The 3 Types of Roux
Depending on how long you cook your roux, the color can range from pale white to dark brown. Each roux has its own unique use and they are not interchangeable, so it’s important to know the differences.
1. White roux: A white roux is the most common type of roux used to thicken sauces. The flavor is mild, it has the strongest thickening power of all three roux types. It’s most often used to thicken white sauces such as a béchamel, country gravy or cheese sauce. It does not have a noticeable color or flavor. It’s also somewhat thicker and more textured than darker rouxs. The longer you cook it, the smoother it becomes.
2. Blonde roux: Like a white roux, a blonde roux can be used to thicken any white sauce. It’s cooked for a few minutes longer than a white roux and develops a mild, nutty flavor. A blonde roux is traditionally used to thicken things like étouffée and chicken dishes.
3. Brown roux: A brown roux is the one used most often in the south. The flavor is strong and imparts a nutty, toasted flavor to whatever it is added to. Traditionally brown roux is used as the base to thicken gumbos, stews and other Louisiana dishes. Brown roux has the least thickening power out of the three rouxs but the richest flavor.
Roux has 2 ingredients: Fat and Flour. You can use animal fat, butter, lard or oil in your roux.
Now let’s make a roux
In a small saucepan melt the butter (or heat the oil) over medium heat. Add the flour and stir constantly for 2-5 minutes until the mixture is bubbly and foamy. Keep stirring over medium heat for up to an additional 5 minutes (10 minutes total). You’ll know it’s a blonde roux when it turns a light caramel or peanut butter color. Keep stirring over medium heat for up to an additional 5 minutes (10 minutes total). You’ll know it’s done when it turns a light caramel or peanut butter color. At this point for a darker roux turn down the heat to medium-low and keep stirring. You’ll need to keep cooking for an additional 5-15 minutes. The roux will take on a nutty aroma and turn a milk chocolate brown. Now to get that dark roux, make sure your heat is still set to medium-low and keep stirring till your roux is a dark complex maple color. This is a true labor of love and you should be tired from stirring at this point. The total cook time is 35+ minutes but so worth it. Dark Roux adds a complex and lovely flavor and is what’s commonly used in gumbos and amazing Louisiana, Cajun, Creole and country cookin’.
Every roux will turn out a little bit different and that’s part of the magic. Embrace the challenge and don’t worry, even the best chefs have burnt a roux or two. Just start over.
I have made gumbo for most of my life throughout every part of Louisiana. Seafood, chicken and sausage, andouille, duck, squirrel and some I can’t even remember. My gumbo has won awards, cook-offs, and is my favorite thing to cook and serve guests here in the bayou state and that same little boy who watched his daddy so many years ago bored out of my mind while he made the roux is still in here. I hate making roux but I do it because I it’s the start of some of the best food you can put in ya mouth. Well and now I’m the one who gets to drink when I make it.
I will tell y’all the same thing I told a tv host years ago when asked what’s the secret to my gumbo (or any great gumbo,) “there’s no secret, it’s all about the roux, you get that right and everything else will fall into place.”
Guys it’s all about the Roux!!!! Have yourself a drink, get to cookin’ and remember, “Treat Your Kitchen, Treat Yourself”